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What's Katie Doing?

Gin Travel Food

May 13, 2016

Cuba: Viñales

Day two of my Cuban Adventures tour of Cuba took me to the village of Viñales in the valley of the same name.

Our tour started in Havana, then stopped for 2 days in Viñales, before heading on to Trinidad via Cienfuegos. If you have more time to explore Cuba, then why not get off the beaten path and head to Baracoa in the east of the island.

Viñales has a special micro-climate due to the mogotes – limestone formations or pin cushion hills. This gives the valley moist nights, cool mornings and coupled with the fertile red soil, makes it perfect for growing premium tobacco.

We stayed here two nights – getting in after dark on the first one and being woken up by the smell of roasting coffee and the sound of the (very loud!) roosters.
We stayed at a homestay again. Most of the town seems to earn from providing services to tourists – either from running homestays (having a couple of rooms in their house to rent out to tourists), working as tour guides or in restaurants/bars. 
The included breakfast was pretty amazing. Fruit, cheese, toast, cake, coffee, fresh juice and some deep fried pastry – plenty to fill up for the day! 
We then went on a walking tour to check out the surrounding countryside.

I love the colours of the houses – all painted up brightly and with those classic cars parked outside.

So many cute colours and flowers everywhere.

Orchids in the trees

The view down the street – you get the country feel.

Our guide explaining about the banana trees.

Goat! And the local men planting the tobacco plants

They grow big!

A poinsettia in its natural habitat, I’m used to seeing these at Christmas.

A tobacco drying house – when they pick the tobacco it gets laid out in here to dry before being graded and either made into cigars or given to the government for their factories.

We also saw lots of fruit being grown and coffee plants. The farmer invited us into his house to try the coffee and we got to see how rural Cubans live:

Old style house – with high ceiling up to the pitched roof and beams separating the rooms. The farmer talked us through his family tree and all the people in the photos.

Banana trees

Farmer’s house

Tilling the field with oxen

Not sure the cow enjoyed the view as much as me!
We walked on scrabbling up one of the smaller limestone hills and met up with a tobacco farmer who showed us how to roll cigars:

His English was very good, I was impressed at his rolling skills too!

Our tour guides Alex and Inti enjoying their cigars and showing us how it’s done.

Of course I had to have a puff!

Close up of the cigar with its ‘pigtail’ end – traditionally the way they do it in the country.

After that stop we headed on back to the road where the bus picked us up (we had ended not doing the original circular route  so were a ways out of town – plus it started raining, so seeking shelter in the bus was a good idea).

One final tree trunk bridge to cross

That afternoon there were some cultural options in town… Or rum, so of course we did rum!

The legendary Legendario rum – I liked the aged version and the girls we were travelling with loved the sweeter one neat over ice – the perfect digestif!

But we didn’t stop there – trying out the various cocktails with dark and light rum too:

Lucy posing with a mango daiquiri

We headed back to our homestays a little drunk after that and got ready for a night out, which obviously started with the *best* piña coladas EVER from someone’s front door stop:

Inti was in charge of rum pouring!! The Piña Coladas were creamy with fresh coconut and pineapple – simply sublime!

After all that prep we ended up at the local cultural centre (this is basically where all the tourists get herded to watch a dance show with live music – the locals party outside in the square for free)

Here Alex taught us some salsa moves – looks like I’m in time in the photo above!

Then there were many more Mojitos and Cuba Libres before we ended the night.

The next morning was a struggle on the bus – but we got to stop at the view point across the valley to truly appreciate the view
Next stop was Trinidad via Cienfuegos and that’s another story, keep your eyes on the blog to find out about it…

 

Read more about our introduction to Havana with the walking tour of the Old Town – la Habana Vieja.

 

My friend Lucy and I received our tour with 50% off as I’d entered a blogging competition to win flights and a tour. Whilst I didn’t win the competition I received 50% of the tour costs and my friends can get 15% off tours too! Just mention the discount and this blog when booking with Cuban Adventures (discount does not apply to local payments)
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Filed Under: Central America, Cuba, travel

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. carla says

    June 8, 2016 at 1:22 pm

    looks like a lot of fun!! How was the tobacco? I never tried one…

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 8, 2016 at 1:58 pm

      I’m not a smoker Carla, but I don’t mind trying a cigar, I can’t smoke a whole one though!

      Reply
  2. Laura @ Grassroots Nomad says

    June 8, 2016 at 3:51 pm

    This was one of my favourite places in Cuba! We stopped for lunch at someone’s house and swam at a waterfall on their land before we all hand lunch together. It is still one of my favourite memories 8 years later!

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 9, 2016 at 9:29 am

      We didn’t do the waterfall Laura, but Vinales is such an amazing landscape it’s good to get right in it like that!

      Reply
  3. marie says

    June 8, 2016 at 5:32 pm

    Great photo’s Katie! Wonderful to get off the beaten track and explore villages. I visited Cuba a good few years ago and remember the shops being virtually empty and the people struggling buy things. Hopefully it has changed?

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 9, 2016 at 9:31 am

      I think things are changing slowly Marie, the people we spoke to were optimistic about the sanctions being lifted, but thought it would take a few years to fully impact the economy and benefit Cubans.

      Reply
  4. Marteen says

    June 8, 2016 at 5:50 pm

    That breakfast looked scrumptious! The poinsettias look so big and like you I’m used to seeing them at Christmas.

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 9, 2016 at 9:31 am

      It’s amazing when you see something out of its usual context – explains why my poinsettias don’t like the cold at Christmas!

      Reply
  5. Suma Jain says

    June 8, 2016 at 6:21 pm

    A perfect Cuban experience!! Not a Rum person but would love to try the Legendario hahah 😉

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 9, 2016 at 9:32 am

      I reckon that they could find something rum based for everyone Suma 😉

      Reply
  6. Katie @ The Budget Backpack says

    June 8, 2016 at 8:01 pm

    That’s so cool that you were able to get a look into the farm life there. I’ve recently taken an interest in how different cultures/countries source their food and run their farms. This tour looks right up my alley– I’ll definitely look into it!

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 9, 2016 at 9:33 am

      Yes sounds exactly what you would be interested in Katie – I would definitely recommend getting out into the countryside and talking to the farmers, what you may struggle a little with is where the government interaction overlaps (they are still a bit sensitive in some areas!)

      Reply
  7. Patricia says

    June 8, 2016 at 9:47 pm

    I think this is the first time I’ve really seen pictures and read descriptions of life in Cuba outside of Havana. It looks so lush — I can see why it is ideal for farming/planting, etc. I might have to pass on the cigars, though, because the smell usually makes me fairly ill — can’t imagine what smoking one would do!

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 9, 2016 at 9:35 am

      Hey Patricia, definitely worth getting into the countryside for something that isn’t colonial cities and beaches. I know cigars aren’t for everyone!

      Reply
  8. Meg Jerrard says

    June 9, 2016 at 7:20 am

    Starting to hear a lot more about Cuba now that the restrictions have been lifted on travel to and from the US. I can’t wait to visit, and hopefully will manage to get there before tourism really hits a boom. Was there a lot of tourism there when you visited, or was it mainly in Havana?

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 9, 2016 at 9:40 am

      Oh yes there was tourism everywhere Meg – even Vinales which isn’t on most people’s itineraries was super busy with tourists, its the only way for the locals to supplement their incomes as the tourist peso is worth more than the local money.

      Reply
  9. Paige Brown says

    June 10, 2016 at 12:20 am

    Anytime I see anything about Cuba, I get incredibly jealous! This looks even more incredible than a lot of things that I see because it looks & sounds like it was an exceptional cultural experience! Thanks for sharing!

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 10, 2016 at 10:56 am

      Thanks Paige, I hope you get the chance to visit soon!

      Reply
  10. Danielle Des says

    June 10, 2016 at 4:13 am

    I’m not sure if it’s good or not, but it seems great that you can contribute to the local homeowners in Cuba while building tourism in the country. I would love to be woken up with roasted coffee #islandlife.

    Reply
    • Katie Hughes says

      June 10, 2016 at 10:58 am

      I think the situation will be changing in the future now that the sanctions etc are lifted, however seeing how poorly people live you can understand why they are so keen to provide services and make additional money.

      Reply

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